By ALEXANDER LOBRANO THE VIEWS of the Mediterranean from the dining room of Le Môle Passédat–La Table are sweeping. Chef Gérald Passédat's just-opened restaurant is part of Marseille's ambitious new MuCEM (Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilizations), whose mission is to celebrate the diverse cultures surrounding the storied sea. Mr. Passédat's menu amplifies the same theme in gastronomic terms, and offers an intriguing glimpse into how southern French cooking is evolving in the 21st century. Enlarge Image Close Enlarge Image Close Enlarge Image Close The dishes are also a perfect reflection of Marseille—a cultural and ethnic stewpot of a city that belongs to Western Europe, the...
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