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Gold Country dining embodies region, history

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Cruising through the towns of Jackson, Amador City, Sutter Creek, Plymouth and Volcano, it doesn't take much imagination to envision life in the Gold Country more than a century ago. Sure, there are cars and people in modern garb, but the structures have an Old West feel. Not all the region's restaurants follow the same path. They might not be on the cutting edge of cuisine like San Francisco places are, but they embody the region and speak to small-town hospitality. On a recent trip to the area I tried a dozen places; below are the six best. In all of them you're never too far from the past. Many of the fine-dining establishments are in refurbished hotels, some dating back to the Gold Rush....

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