The food lineup at the Table joins the still too-small boomlet of imaginative menus. The fare is distinguished in large part by the use of grains and vegetables that rise above the usual lineup of year-round carrots and broccoli florets. The “forbidden salad” ($9) is named after the black “forbidden rice” of China, which anchors the mix of frisee and other greens, plus fennel shavings. Despite a surprisingly oily dressing, it’s a good concept. The distinctive nutty flavor of the black rice shines through, augmented by a few needless candied walnut halves and apple slices. The Caesar salad ($10) is original. The centerpiece is a slice of rich brioche bread with a hole in the center that...
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