For more than 23 years, Daniels proved itself a remarkably consistent fine-dining restaurant, earning the patronage of loyal customers and the highest marks from critics. Last year, Daniel Johengen, the eponymous chef-owner, sold the place. When it reopened in December, fans wondered how the restaurant’s heart transplant would change its character. At a recent meal I found luxurious cuisine and first-class service at Daniels, with a few adventurous twists. ¶ I had never been to Daniels before I found myself parking behind the converted house in Hamburg. I did take guests who had dined there a couple of years ago, with glowing memories. The new owners, Henry Matuszewski, Annette...
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