Oscar Wilde once cautioned that one should never criticize society because only those who can't get into it do that. So it is with hotel dining rooms, whose critics have probably not eaten in one in the last twenty years and who are wholly unaware that some of the finest restaurants in every major city are in hotels. I need only list three or four to prove the point: Jean-Georges at Trump in New York, Georges V at the Four Seasons Georges Cinq, in Paris, Anna Sacher at the Hotel Sacher in Vienna and De Pisis at the Bauer in Venice. But London, more than any other city, seems blessed with an exceptional number of very fine restaurants located in very fine hotels, including Helene Darroze at...
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