Translations of French into English can be awkward when it comes to restaurants, like those failed attempts opened by celebrated absentee chefs Alain Ducasse, Louis Outhier, Jacques Maximin, and Claude Baills. One enchanting exception is Racines, the year-old offshoot of two Paris wine-centered restaurants of the same name (on Rue de l'Arbre-Sec and Passage des Panoramas). The d�cor of the NYC branch evokes those of its predecessors, and the style of cooking is fresh, modern and wholly personalized, in this case by Chef Fr�d�ric Duca (below), a native of Marseilles, who's worked at top restaurants like Le Martinez in Cannes and H�l�ne Darroze in Paris, receiving his own Michelin star at his...
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